Hot Springs, NC

It turns out that the climb out of NOC is just as difficult as it ever was. I remember when I told Sweet Potato (GAME08) that the descent in was bad and she couldn't believe I never warned her about the climb out. It does, indeed, take forever. I hiked it in solitude and after finally summiting Cheoh Bald, I worried that I might turn down the wrong trail. The Bartram Trail, according to the guide, connects but doesn't overlap with the AT. If you've been following along, you'll remember that I had an unfortunate detour on Wesser, so I was a little paranoid. Luckily, Man Cub came along. He is a fellow thru-hiker who named himself based on the Jungle Book character and his quest to spend time in nature while having a Call of the Wild/ Kerouac experience. We decided the correct route together (which did involve an overlapping of trails), and I spent a pleasant and interesting rest of the day chatting and hiking with him. I stayed at a Stecoah Gap that night at a place called Cabin in the Woods run by Phil and his wife that I did not meet. Their hostel wasn't ready yet, so they let me stay in a beautiful cabin for a a very reduced thru-hiker rate. I felt like I won the lottery when it stormed something fierce that evening.

The next day was spent hiking into Fontana Dam. Some of you may remember how you can see the water/dam forever before you get there. As this is the earliest I've hiked on the AT, this experience was exaggerated by lack of leaf cover. That evening I had dinner with Walking Man and Jim, two men I met previously at different times. Walking Man is a 68 year old former thru-hiker headed to PA, and Jim is a mid-forties stay-at-home Dad. I felt like a whippersnapper.

After breakfast at the lodge the next day, I pushed on into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. In '08, they wouldn't let us cross the Fontana Dam, so I was pleased that it was open this year. Two rangers greeted me at the entrance where I was trying to take a photo of myself by the sign. The larger one offered to take the shot and then asked for my permit. As I reached into my pack, he asked, "Do you have any firearms?" Of course, I replied, "Only these big guns, officers," as I kissed my biceps. Just kidding, but we did get far more attention from the rangers at the entrance this year. I made it to Russel Field Shelter that night and it was a clear day.

It stormed all night, and I walked in a moist cloud the entire next day. The 16.4 miles to Double Spring Gap Shelter were filled with what I think are the most ups and downs of the smokies. I found myself in a perfect shelter-riding pocket. There was a large group ahead but my shelters were not packed at all. For those of you that are not experieced AT folk, I should note that in the Smokies, you are required to stay at a shelter every night. Thru-hikers are allowed to tent at the shelter sites only when the shelter is full.

The next day was a race to Newfound Gap and Gatlinburg! More hiking in a cloud. No views from Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the AT. I went up there anyway to get photos of me and my lack of views. I had been hiking the same pace through the first half of the Smokies with Sky and Jim. We all leapfrogged each other. On this day, Sky and I hiked the second half of the day together in order to get a good hitch into Gatlinburg. Little did we know that as soon as we shot out into civilzation, Godspeed (GAME '05) would walk right up to us and ask, "Are you going to Gatlinburg?" We would say, "YES!" Then he would say, "I'll be your ride." TRAIL MAGIC at its finest. Gatlinburg is 15 miles from the gap, so we were super excited and Godspeed and his wife, Mountain Mama had soda and snacks. I celebrated by zeroing in town the next day.

I left "Southern Vegas," finally, but only after an all-you-can-eat breakfast at Shoney's. Yes, the bacon is all you can eat too. I'm sure you were wondering. The news reported rain but I got nothing but clear skies and fantastic views from Charlies Bunion. I ran into a man named Tabasco for the second time. I note this only because I find it interesting that the man carries what appears to be two large duffel bags across his front in addition to his very large pack on his back, and this isn't even his first day at the races. That night, I camped at Tri-Corner Knob Shelter with Yak & Stich, a very charming, Southern husband & wife team, Zippers and Stretch, lovely couple who work in Yellowstone, Hazard, a young, vibrant college student, and Steadfast.

I did the 18.2 to Standing Bear Farm the following day. It had rained all night, but the day was fairly clear. I spent part of the day in conversation with Hazard which was very pleasant. We made great timing into the hostel and I enjoyed a giant mixing bowl full of black beans, fritos, cheese, and hot sauce. Curtis, owner of Standing Bear, looked at the bowl and asked me if I was baking a pie. Listen folks, I'M HUNGRY.

When I asked Curtis what the weather people were predicting, he said 30 percent chance of rain. He neglected to say 100 percent chance of biblical. Later that night, Stretch would say he must have meant 90 percent chance of sleet and snow. That is what we got. When I summited Max Patch, I experienced diagonal sleet pelting me in my face. I had to hold my hand up to protect it.  You know those blazed posts that they put on balds that seem gratuitous on a nice day? I only allowed myself to look up to find the next one. On this day, there weren't enough of them. That night, I slept in Roaring Fork Shelter with Hummingbird, White Owl, Hazard, Sherpa, Zippers, and Stretch. We were practically spooning like Civil War reenactors.

This brings me to Hot Springs. Almost 18 miles in two inches of snow to get here yesterday. Just in case, you don't think two inches of snow is very much, hold off on the thought until next time you disbelievingly wake up to it in the middle of the woods, and then have to climb a couple of mountains before you descend into town. Then get back to me on that one.

Truth be told, I'm having a blast :) Thanks for reading, ya'll.