Leaving Erwin was fairly easy because I knew Tailgate was visiting in a couple of days. The weather was supposed to get stormy but that first day I stayed at Cherry Gap Shelter and the thunder didn't start until 2:30am. It did kick in toward the end of my hike, on the following day, while on a semi-exposed, rocky ridgeline. We must deal with these moments.
Tailgate was waiting at Hughes Gap with homeade brownies, soda, and beer. When I arrived with my buddies Nero and Shoefly, she sweetly offered to have them join us at the cabin. We dined on fish tacos, avocado salad (with Cilantro!) and wine. Nice.
The following day, I had the genius idea for a slackpack over Roan Mountain. Tailgate drove to the other side and we didn't have to carry our packs over a mountain that I was not looking forward to summiting a third time. It proved much more enjoyable without the pack and the first mile of the ascent has been rerouted, so it is much easier now. After more trail magic with more thru-hiker buddies, including Easy Does It (GAME '08), Tailgate and I headed back to the cabin.
We spent my next zero day watching not one but two movies at the local cinema in Johnson City! It was a beautiful day spent in doors. Though, I was happy to be spoiled by the comforts of home, I was not looking forward to the following day's forecast.
Which brings me to my ascent of the many balds after Roan Mountain. This section is gorgeous and one that many former thru-hikers often come back to and hike again. On this day, they were a chore. Any long-distance hiker knows the feeling of total trepidation when hiking exposed land on a stormy day. It was a very Eastern European looking day. However, there was no thunder and lightning. I spent the day frightened that there would be but it held off, thankfully. The highlight of the day was running into my friend Raspberry that I met on day one. I was afraid I wouldn't see too many familiar faces.
That evening, I made it to Mountain Harbour Hostel. I planned to hike to 19E and was not going to camp by that road, so I trekked to the hostel. It really lived up to its reputation. Mary does indeed make the best breakfast I have ever had on the AT. I can't believe I never stopped there before. The hostel sits above a barn that houses goats and horses. Love it there!
I thought about hostel hopping and hiking the full 24 miles to Kincora but I had a pleasant day hiking with Raspberry and we both sheltered at Moreland Gap just 6 miles from Dennis Cove Rd. That night, I heard serious animal sounds and tried to wake Raspberry but he just snored through them while I clutched my pepper spray and stared straight ahead. Eventually, I passed out and woke up in the morning with the spray still in my hand.
Hiking into Kinora is always a pleasure and when I saw Bob Peoples he remembered exactly the last time he saw me. He still calls me Diane rather than Cayenne but I don't care 'casue I loves me some Bob Peoples. For everyone that knows and loves Bob: He is doing great! He looks great and seems as happy as ever. Apparently, after Pat passed, he decided that you have to go out and do it all NOW while you can. He's thru-hiked the Camino Trail in Spain and plans to work on the IAT this year.
I was the last to leave the next day, but caught up with Raspberry by the time we got to the lake. By the way, I don't like Pond Flats. Never did really. Where is the top of that thing? Razz and I made it to Vandeventer Shelter before the wind got too bad and spent a very chilly night stuffed in a shelter with a ton of people who reeked of cigarette smoke. So happy that I kicked that habit.
The next day, we hiked 22.4 miles to Abingdon Gap Shelter and the day after it took 10 lightly dusted in snow covered miles to get into Damascus. Ah...I love the descent into this town. You float.
That's all for now except I'm sorry to report that I will not be doing the creeper trail this year as I am shooting for my 2,000 milers status and this means that I have to do the less fun section right out of town as I have never done it before. Oh well. Techinically, I have hiked well over 2,000 miles on the AT, but you get 2,000 miler status when you hike the entire white-blazed sections of the trail. This does not include the gloriously flat Virginia Creeper Trail which is beautiful. No it does not.
Monday, April 18, 2011
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Erwin, TN
My zero day at Elmer's Sunnybank Inn was just what I needed. Staying at this hostel is always such a treat for me. The old house has an extensive library, a nice garden, and an old guy that tells it like it is. It sort of reminds me of Twin Oaks in the good old days (meaning my good old days at TO). Elmer and other former thru-hikers provide organic, veggie meals two times a day. I ate there three times, and I didn't even miss the meat. Although, I did have an appetizer of turkey jerky before my last dinner there.
I had high hopes of taking off early the next day. I woke up at 7am, got breakfast at the diner, and then found myself back on the trail at 10:47 am. Not sure where all the time went. Its hard to leave Hot Springs. I wanted to do a 20 mile day, but ended up at 16.7 miles which led me down a back road to Hemlock Hollow Hostel. All my loved ones are gonna be so mad when they read that I was trotting down a Tennessee back road by myself and at the end of the day. I wasn't too thrilled about it either.
At Hemlock, I ran into Lightning who had an allergic reaction to MSG and found herself dry heaving on the trail, earlier that day. She had been sleeping it off in the bunkhouse and hadn't noticed the intense wasp infestation until I woke her up when I arrived. As I prepared my dinner, more and more wasps joined the party. Eventually, we had to alert the owners and were moved to a small cabin where we shared a double bed. Close quarters when you don't know someone, but we sleep closer together in shelters, so it was not such a big deal for hikers.
Next day, Lightning asked me to join her on a 18.8 mile slackpack that she set up. As it was her treat, I couldn't say no. A slackpack is when you carry only the supplies needed for the day (water and snacks or lunch) and are usually shuttled ahead on the trail and walk back to the place you are staying. This particular slackpack took longer than expected because we ran into 25 thru-hikers while hiking South and stopped to chat with all of them. On a typical North bound day, I would have seen maybe 5 of those folks. It was kind of neat to have that perspective for a day, and the weather was fantastic until the thunderstorms started during the last few miles.
That night, there was a pretty big storm, and we woke up to more rain which turned to snow. It was a slow going morning and it seemed like Lightning was wavering about getting back on the trail. She thru-hiked last year and is only sectioning this year, so she can do what she likes. I do not have that luxury. Eventually, she decided to get a ride into Erwin after they dropped me back at Devils Fork Gap.
I headed uphill that day with a late start and it got colder and more snow covered as I climbed. I put on more clothes which is rare when you are mostly going uphill. I was happy to run into Hazard early in the day and we hiked together until we got to Sam's Gap where Quiet Paul (GAME '07) was making breakfast for thru-hikers under an overpass. He made us huge sausage links, hashbrowns made from real potatoes, and scrambled eggs from actual chickens. Paul didn't talk much and may have ignored 3 to 5 of my questions but I didn't care because afternoon breakfast was fantastic.
Good thing we were warmed by the food because the rest of the day brought intense winds on top of Big Bald. The views were tremendous but there was no time to dally as I was nearly knocked over twice. Everyone I ran into that day decided to stay at Bald Mountain Shelter, but I wanted to push on and have less miles into Erwin. I also wanted to go a few more miles and drop the 1200 ft to get warmer. In the shelter register, Caboose and Upstate said that they were camping a few miles North, so I hoped to run into them. Unfortunately, when I got to the campsite no one was there. I thought about pushing on but I knew the next site was near a larger road (19w), so I decided to camp alone. This was my first time tenting by myself...ever. It was a big step for me. Luckily I got cell service so Marie/Tailgate talked to me for a couple of hours before I fell asleep that night. I was very proud of myself.
I got up at 6am the next morning, was hiking by 7:25am, and made it to Erwin around 1:30pm. I don't know if any of you remember, but you see Erwin a long time before you make it to the town. Long time. There's that Nolichucky again. I had a little knee trouble on the way down but it seems fine now. I have to wait for a package, so I'll be taking an unplanned zero. I wanted to hike out because I plan to take two zeros when Tailgate visits this weekend, but at least another day off will be good for my knee.
Until the next Southern Library.
I had high hopes of taking off early the next day. I woke up at 7am, got breakfast at the diner, and then found myself back on the trail at 10:47 am. Not sure where all the time went. Its hard to leave Hot Springs. I wanted to do a 20 mile day, but ended up at 16.7 miles which led me down a back road to Hemlock Hollow Hostel. All my loved ones are gonna be so mad when they read that I was trotting down a Tennessee back road by myself and at the end of the day. I wasn't too thrilled about it either.
At Hemlock, I ran into Lightning who had an allergic reaction to MSG and found herself dry heaving on the trail, earlier that day. She had been sleeping it off in the bunkhouse and hadn't noticed the intense wasp infestation until I woke her up when I arrived. As I prepared my dinner, more and more wasps joined the party. Eventually, we had to alert the owners and were moved to a small cabin where we shared a double bed. Close quarters when you don't know someone, but we sleep closer together in shelters, so it was not such a big deal for hikers.
Next day, Lightning asked me to join her on a 18.8 mile slackpack that she set up. As it was her treat, I couldn't say no. A slackpack is when you carry only the supplies needed for the day (water and snacks or lunch) and are usually shuttled ahead on the trail and walk back to the place you are staying. This particular slackpack took longer than expected because we ran into 25 thru-hikers while hiking South and stopped to chat with all of them. On a typical North bound day, I would have seen maybe 5 of those folks. It was kind of neat to have that perspective for a day, and the weather was fantastic until the thunderstorms started during the last few miles.
That night, there was a pretty big storm, and we woke up to more rain which turned to snow. It was a slow going morning and it seemed like Lightning was wavering about getting back on the trail. She thru-hiked last year and is only sectioning this year, so she can do what she likes. I do not have that luxury. Eventually, she decided to get a ride into Erwin after they dropped me back at Devils Fork Gap.
I headed uphill that day with a late start and it got colder and more snow covered as I climbed. I put on more clothes which is rare when you are mostly going uphill. I was happy to run into Hazard early in the day and we hiked together until we got to Sam's Gap where Quiet Paul (GAME '07) was making breakfast for thru-hikers under an overpass. He made us huge sausage links, hashbrowns made from real potatoes, and scrambled eggs from actual chickens. Paul didn't talk much and may have ignored 3 to 5 of my questions but I didn't care because afternoon breakfast was fantastic.
Good thing we were warmed by the food because the rest of the day brought intense winds on top of Big Bald. The views were tremendous but there was no time to dally as I was nearly knocked over twice. Everyone I ran into that day decided to stay at Bald Mountain Shelter, but I wanted to push on and have less miles into Erwin. I also wanted to go a few more miles and drop the 1200 ft to get warmer. In the shelter register, Caboose and Upstate said that they were camping a few miles North, so I hoped to run into them. Unfortunately, when I got to the campsite no one was there. I thought about pushing on but I knew the next site was near a larger road (19w), so I decided to camp alone. This was my first time tenting by myself...ever. It was a big step for me. Luckily I got cell service so Marie/Tailgate talked to me for a couple of hours before I fell asleep that night. I was very proud of myself.
I got up at 6am the next morning, was hiking by 7:25am, and made it to Erwin around 1:30pm. I don't know if any of you remember, but you see Erwin a long time before you make it to the town. Long time. There's that Nolichucky again. I had a little knee trouble on the way down but it seems fine now. I have to wait for a package, so I'll be taking an unplanned zero. I wanted to hike out because I plan to take two zeros when Tailgate visits this weekend, but at least another day off will be good for my knee.
Until the next Southern Library.
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Hot Springs, NC
It turns out that the climb out of NOC is just as difficult as it ever was. I remember when I told Sweet Potato (GAME08) that the descent in was bad and she couldn't believe I never warned her about the climb out. It does, indeed, take forever. I hiked it in solitude and after finally summiting Cheoh Bald, I worried that I might turn down the wrong trail. The Bartram Trail, according to the guide, connects but doesn't overlap with the AT. If you've been following along, you'll remember that I had an unfortunate detour on Wesser, so I was a little paranoid. Luckily, Man Cub came along. He is a fellow thru-hiker who named himself based on the Jungle Book character and his quest to spend time in nature while having a Call of the Wild/ Kerouac experience. We decided the correct route together (which did involve an overlapping of trails), and I spent a pleasant and interesting rest of the day chatting and hiking with him. I stayed at a Stecoah Gap that night at a place called Cabin in the Woods run by Phil and his wife that I did not meet. Their hostel wasn't ready yet, so they let me stay in a beautiful cabin for a a very reduced thru-hiker rate. I felt like I won the lottery when it stormed something fierce that evening.
The next day was spent hiking into Fontana Dam. Some of you may remember how you can see the water/dam forever before you get there. As this is the earliest I've hiked on the AT, this experience was exaggerated by lack of leaf cover. That evening I had dinner with Walking Man and Jim, two men I met previously at different times. Walking Man is a 68 year old former thru-hiker headed to PA, and Jim is a mid-forties stay-at-home Dad. I felt like a whippersnapper.
After breakfast at the lodge the next day, I pushed on into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. In '08, they wouldn't let us cross the Fontana Dam, so I was pleased that it was open this year. Two rangers greeted me at the entrance where I was trying to take a photo of myself by the sign. The larger one offered to take the shot and then asked for my permit. As I reached into my pack, he asked, "Do you have any firearms?" Of course, I replied, "Only these big guns, officers," as I kissed my biceps. Just kidding, but we did get far more attention from the rangers at the entrance this year. I made it to Russel Field Shelter that night and it was a clear day.
It stormed all night, and I walked in a moist cloud the entire next day. The 16.4 miles to Double Spring Gap Shelter were filled with what I think are the most ups and downs of the smokies. I found myself in a perfect shelter-riding pocket. There was a large group ahead but my shelters were not packed at all. For those of you that are not experieced AT folk, I should note that in the Smokies, you are required to stay at a shelter every night. Thru-hikers are allowed to tent at the shelter sites only when the shelter is full.
The next day was a race to Newfound Gap and Gatlinburg! More hiking in a cloud. No views from Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the AT. I went up there anyway to get photos of me and my lack of views. I had been hiking the same pace through the first half of the Smokies with Sky and Jim. We all leapfrogged each other. On this day, Sky and I hiked the second half of the day together in order to get a good hitch into Gatlinburg. Little did we know that as soon as we shot out into civilzation, Godspeed (GAME '05) would walk right up to us and ask, "Are you going to Gatlinburg?" We would say, "YES!" Then he would say, "I'll be your ride." TRAIL MAGIC at its finest. Gatlinburg is 15 miles from the gap, so we were super excited and Godspeed and his wife, Mountain Mama had soda and snacks. I celebrated by zeroing in town the next day.
I left "Southern Vegas," finally, but only after an all-you-can-eat breakfast at Shoney's. Yes, the bacon is all you can eat too. I'm sure you were wondering. The news reported rain but I got nothing but clear skies and fantastic views from Charlies Bunion. I ran into a man named Tabasco for the second time. I note this only because I find it interesting that the man carries what appears to be two large duffel bags across his front in addition to his very large pack on his back, and this isn't even his first day at the races. That night, I camped at Tri-Corner Knob Shelter with Yak & Stich, a very charming, Southern husband & wife team, Zippers and Stretch, lovely couple who work in Yellowstone, Hazard, a young, vibrant college student, and Steadfast.
I did the 18.2 to Standing Bear Farm the following day. It had rained all night, but the day was fairly clear. I spent part of the day in conversation with Hazard which was very pleasant. We made great timing into the hostel and I enjoyed a giant mixing bowl full of black beans, fritos, cheese, and hot sauce. Curtis, owner of Standing Bear, looked at the bowl and asked me if I was baking a pie. Listen folks, I'M HUNGRY.
When I asked Curtis what the weather people were predicting, he said 30 percent chance of rain. He neglected to say 100 percent chance of biblical. Later that night, Stretch would say he must have meant 90 percent chance of sleet and snow. That is what we got. When I summited Max Patch, I experienced diagonal sleet pelting me in my face. I had to hold my hand up to protect it. You know those blazed posts that they put on balds that seem gratuitous on a nice day? I only allowed myself to look up to find the next one. On this day, there weren't enough of them. That night, I slept in Roaring Fork Shelter with Hummingbird, White Owl, Hazard, Sherpa, Zippers, and Stretch. We were practically spooning like Civil War reenactors.
This brings me to Hot Springs. Almost 18 miles in two inches of snow to get here yesterday. Just in case, you don't think two inches of snow is very much, hold off on the thought until next time you disbelievingly wake up to it in the middle of the woods, and then have to climb a couple of mountains before you descend into town. Then get back to me on that one.
Truth be told, I'm having a blast :) Thanks for reading, ya'll.
The next day was spent hiking into Fontana Dam. Some of you may remember how you can see the water/dam forever before you get there. As this is the earliest I've hiked on the AT, this experience was exaggerated by lack of leaf cover. That evening I had dinner with Walking Man and Jim, two men I met previously at different times. Walking Man is a 68 year old former thru-hiker headed to PA, and Jim is a mid-forties stay-at-home Dad. I felt like a whippersnapper.
After breakfast at the lodge the next day, I pushed on into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. In '08, they wouldn't let us cross the Fontana Dam, so I was pleased that it was open this year. Two rangers greeted me at the entrance where I was trying to take a photo of myself by the sign. The larger one offered to take the shot and then asked for my permit. As I reached into my pack, he asked, "Do you have any firearms?" Of course, I replied, "Only these big guns, officers," as I kissed my biceps. Just kidding, but we did get far more attention from the rangers at the entrance this year. I made it to Russel Field Shelter that night and it was a clear day.
It stormed all night, and I walked in a moist cloud the entire next day. The 16.4 miles to Double Spring Gap Shelter were filled with what I think are the most ups and downs of the smokies. I found myself in a perfect shelter-riding pocket. There was a large group ahead but my shelters were not packed at all. For those of you that are not experieced AT folk, I should note that in the Smokies, you are required to stay at a shelter every night. Thru-hikers are allowed to tent at the shelter sites only when the shelter is full.
The next day was a race to Newfound Gap and Gatlinburg! More hiking in a cloud. No views from Clingman's Dome, the highest point on the AT. I went up there anyway to get photos of me and my lack of views. I had been hiking the same pace through the first half of the Smokies with Sky and Jim. We all leapfrogged each other. On this day, Sky and I hiked the second half of the day together in order to get a good hitch into Gatlinburg. Little did we know that as soon as we shot out into civilzation, Godspeed (GAME '05) would walk right up to us and ask, "Are you going to Gatlinburg?" We would say, "YES!" Then he would say, "I'll be your ride." TRAIL MAGIC at its finest. Gatlinburg is 15 miles from the gap, so we were super excited and Godspeed and his wife, Mountain Mama had soda and snacks. I celebrated by zeroing in town the next day.
I left "Southern Vegas," finally, but only after an all-you-can-eat breakfast at Shoney's. Yes, the bacon is all you can eat too. I'm sure you were wondering. The news reported rain but I got nothing but clear skies and fantastic views from Charlies Bunion. I ran into a man named Tabasco for the second time. I note this only because I find it interesting that the man carries what appears to be two large duffel bags across his front in addition to his very large pack on his back, and this isn't even his first day at the races. That night, I camped at Tri-Corner Knob Shelter with Yak & Stich, a very charming, Southern husband & wife team, Zippers and Stretch, lovely couple who work in Yellowstone, Hazard, a young, vibrant college student, and Steadfast.
I did the 18.2 to Standing Bear Farm the following day. It had rained all night, but the day was fairly clear. I spent part of the day in conversation with Hazard which was very pleasant. We made great timing into the hostel and I enjoyed a giant mixing bowl full of black beans, fritos, cheese, and hot sauce. Curtis, owner of Standing Bear, looked at the bowl and asked me if I was baking a pie. Listen folks, I'M HUNGRY.
When I asked Curtis what the weather people were predicting, he said 30 percent chance of rain. He neglected to say 100 percent chance of biblical. Later that night, Stretch would say he must have meant 90 percent chance of sleet and snow. That is what we got. When I summited Max Patch, I experienced diagonal sleet pelting me in my face. I had to hold my hand up to protect it. You know those blazed posts that they put on balds that seem gratuitous on a nice day? I only allowed myself to look up to find the next one. On this day, there weren't enough of them. That night, I slept in Roaring Fork Shelter with Hummingbird, White Owl, Hazard, Sherpa, Zippers, and Stretch. We were practically spooning like Civil War reenactors.
This brings me to Hot Springs. Almost 18 miles in two inches of snow to get here yesterday. Just in case, you don't think two inches of snow is very much, hold off on the thought until next time you disbelievingly wake up to it in the middle of the woods, and then have to climb a couple of mountains before you descend into town. Then get back to me on that one.
Truth be told, I'm having a blast :) Thanks for reading, ya'll.
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